Community eatery reopened
Victoria Taylor
“When it was gone you realized just how much you missed it,” said Michelle Bowen co-owner of the Laker Drive In. Bowen, a native of Stephensburg, grew up enjoying the deep-fried fries, cheesy burgers and creamy milkshakes the community cherishes.
Laker Drive In was originally built during the 1960s next to what then was a high school. In the mid 2000s, after almost 40 years of serving burgers, fries and shakes the doors were locked suddenly at closing time one night, and not reopened for several years. After disappointment spread through the community, residents of Stephensburg adopted the restaurant as a community project.
Bowen and her father, Mike Pirtle, became business partners and rejuvenated the Laker Drive In.The restaurant has been restored to look exactly as it did when first opened. The only major changes were inside the kitchen area. ”I stripped the restaurant down to three walls, and basically had to rebuild it all because it was in such bad shape,” Pirtle said.
Months after completing the restoration Pirtle underwent open-heart surgery wearing his trademark tattered khaki hat,”Everyone asks me why I don’t get a new hat but I’ve survived an open-heart surgery with this hat so I don’t guess I’ll get rid of it.”
Four months after the surgery Pirtle has slowed down the pace of his life and enjoys stopping by the restaurant twice daily in his signature hole ridden hat, “I don’t cook at home anymore. I just come in here and have the girls fix somethin’ for me to take back to the house.”
Residents have been flocking to the walk-up burger shack because, as Bowen put it, “It has always been about the community and family. That’s what the Laker is.”
Mike Pirtle jokes with his granddaughter, Kaylyn Bowen, during her dinner break at work. Bowen and her grandfather enjoy grilling the restaurant's pork tenderloin and putting it over a salad.
Mike Pirtle wears his favorite tattered hat every day when he comes to Laker Drive In for lunch and dinner.
Weekly regulars strike up conversation while waiting for their lunches. At Laker Drive In, every meal is made to order, so customers often end up waiting on the hoods of their vehicles as food is prepared.
Laker Drive In owner Michelle Bowen, right, and family employee, Aunt Suzy Roberts, share a funny story after the midday lunch rush. "I gave that man the wrong change for an ice cream cone, because I'm so used to giving change for milkshakes, so he let me know I shorted him a nickel," Michelle said.
Regular customer Joey Fible, of Stephensburg, comes to Laker Drive In almost every day. "As long as I'm passin' by I'll stop in for lunch," he said. Joey rotates between the same three menu items every time he orders.
"I'll have the Laker Burger" said Ron Henriott, of Eastview, after welding in his garage all morning with his friend Tim Middleton, of Sonora. The two friends eat at Laker at least once a week.
Michelle Meiller, of Stephensburg, takes a smoke break outside Laker Drive In restaurant before the dinner rush begins. Michelle has worked at the landmark drive-up restaurant since it reopened.
Business at Laker Drive In begins to slow minutes before closing time.